Wednesday, 12 November 2014

You are in India No. 2!


I received a lot of reponses from people that enjoyed the You are in India! blog post where I discussed daily details and gave my insights on the strange things that constantly happen in India. So here is You are in India 2.
Oh these little boys :)
The People
Indian people are usally very helpful. Whenever we ask for directions (if the person knows where we want to go) they will usually walk us there. It can feel like they have alternative moitves for their help however. They will give us directions but then tell us to have a look at their "very nice pashmina scarfs" or try to pick us up in their rickshaw later.

Also it appears like Indian people don't like to directly say no. If they don't know the answer or the answer is no they will say yes but do this head wobble thing. You might be familiar with it. The head wobble is the universal sign for "yes no maybe." I have a theory that since there are so many people in India and there is so much competition for business people selling stuff or providing a service they never want to say no because they don't want to lose a customer. So they have developed the head wobble in order to be purposefully vague, they never have to say no and of course confuse foreigners.
Crossing a bridge is never easy in india
We have experienced that Indian people don't usually tell you something unless you ask. And you have to ask the right question as well. When we went on the treks we had to ask very detailed questions. When trying to find a bus you have to ask a lot of different people where or if there is a bus going to your destination. You can ask someone at a ticket counter if there is a bus to Delhi and they will say "No. No bus to Delhi" like there are no buses to Delhi anywhere. But what they mean is "No bus to Delhi"... at this ticket counter. They probably won't know where the counter to buy tickets to Delhi is either, because why would they, they only work and spend all day at the bus station. Also we are definitely the first people to ask this question. However, if you ask the exact right question and phrase it perfectly it's like magic, the person won't even do the head wobble, will smile and take you where you need to go.

Most people we interact with speak english. Their english sometimes isn't great and to be fair my hindi is really really terrible (I dont know how to say anything). Most of the time we don't have a problem with language differences.

India people generally ask what country we are from after talking to us for a while. While they have all heard of the US, most don't seem to know Colorado, which is to be expected. One yoga instuctor did know Boulder because he has a friend living there. A lot of people seem to have a relative living in the US or Australia but haven't been to either places themselves. Most people are completely confused when I tell them I worked as a nanny, even when I say childcare they seem baffled. I have never seen a sign for childcare or daycare likely because the women stay home with the children traditionally. Carl has started changing his career everytime someone asks him, which is starting to seem like a brilliant idea.  
Kiddos  :)
We have met tourist and travelers from everywhere: Europe, Canada, South America, China, Israel. There are definitely more Americans traveling in India than Australia...just doing their own version of Eat, Pray, Love.

How much stuff do I have? I have a large backpack and a small day pack. Its nice to have the small backpack for bus rides and treks. During bus rides I put my big backpack underneath and keep the little one filled with snacks, a travel pillow and my sleeping bag with me. In regards to theft it feels safer compared to my experience in Peru and Carl's experience in Central and South America. We have not experienced people trying to steal or pickpocket us on the bus or the street. Instead they just overcharge and try to scam forigeners.
Moving on
Me with my stuff
Things I brought here: clothes for yoga, shoes, (because the shoes I bought in australia for $5 broke, who would of thought?) gifts for people which is mostly art and jewelry and a small electric kettle so I can boil water and make tea in our crappy hotel rooms. It cost $8 including the mini metal mugs and has brought me so much joy.
Hot water anytime!
 Carl bought a fire staff because it was really cheap and there was suppose to be fire performances at a music festival we went to in Manali. It turned out to be the worst music festival in history so there were no performances, just terrible stabby music. But still the staff is great for protecting us against monkeys, dogs and cows  (this is only in theory though because luckily we have not actually had to fight any animals or people for that matter).

Money
I have only used my card to buy anything once. Most places only accept cash. I withdrawl money from ATMs. There are  bank run ATMs in most of the city centers. I usually withdrawl about $200 (10,000 rupees) at a time, my bank in Australia chargers me a small conversion fee, it can't really be avoided, or that what I tell myself, so whatever. The ATM usually gives me 500 rupee bills which are annoying because alot of places don't have change but its not a problem most of the time.

Drinking
Indians seem to love bad whiskey. It is usually Irish whiskey mixed with Indian grain alcohol. A 750ml bottle of this "very nice indian whiskey" costs around 450 rupees or $8. A bottle of imported whiskey would cost more like 1500-2000 rupees, around $30. Have you heard about that nice wine region in south India? Yea, neither have I because it doesn't exist. Indian wine is generally bad, most bottles are around $10 but you can find some for less and alot more. Kingfisher beer is the most common Indian beer, its costs about  $2 for a large bottle.

Weed
In the Kullu Valley (where I did my yoga teacher training) pot was natural growing everywhere. Pretty sure the local villagers weren't smoking it though. I have no idea how much Indias are smoking and I don't know the laws around it either. Hash was big with tourist in Manali and some people were smoking in restaurants there. Pot doesn't seem to be that common anywhere else in India, maybe in Goa though. Since I don't smoke its not something I know a lot about but someone was curious, so I thought you might be too. It's not that difficult to run into an other tourist that knows about Colorado's legalization.

Clothes
In India legs and shoulders are apparently scandalous. Stomachs not so much. Women wearing saris show there stomach sometimes. While at the ashram I was required to wear baggy pants and my shirts had to have sleeves; no tank tops. All the women were required to wear a salwar kameez when walking around the village which is baggy pants and dress. While not at the ashram and just  walking around I like to have my legs and shoulders covered. I wear leggings or tight pants but I'll put a dress on over. In Kashmir I felt I needed to cover up more and wore my scarf covering my hair. I have seen some forigen women wearing shorts but I wouldn't feel comfortable in shorts myself.
So pretty
Such a pretty dress and just your casual cow on a bridge

The Indian women's outfits match prefectly and look so pretty in the bright colors. Meanwhile everytime I put on a salwar kameez I immediately feel and look like a overweight Midwestern soccer mom in her pajamas.
This picture does NOT convey how bad I look in a salwar kameez 
Welp. There it is. If you have any questions about anything please ask!
Monkey eating a banana because: why not?

Sunday, 9 November 2014

The Taj Mahal people. The Taj. Mahal.

Carl and I woke up at 5am in order to get to the Taj Mahal for the sunrise. We walked out of our hotel while it was still dark and chilly. Within a minute a rickshaw stopped and we were on our way. Our excitment grew as we rode through the moonlit streets. An orangey red full moon floated above us as I sang "spoooooky scary, werewolf bar mitzvah" dont ask me why, it just felt apporatiate.

We were dropped off and walked the remaining 5 minutes to the ticket line. We purchased our tickets and then proceeded to the next line to enter the Taj complex. While I waited with all the women Carl waited in line with the men. Once we got to the front, the guard taking Carl's ticket told him he was in the wrong line(men and woman must enter in seperate lines).  Carl was a little confused as the guard only spoke hindi but slowly Carl realized the guard mistook him for a woman. When the guy took a second look at Carl he started laughing Carl  realized he thought Carl was not a women but a man (Bahahaha!). In the guys defense Carl's hair was looking really good that day. After having a good laugh we passed through security. We the first people through the gates so we were able to get some pictures without a million people in them. 
I'm pretty sure 10 million people have this same photo of themselves in front of the Taj Mahal 
See, even Carl has the same photo 
As we walked closer to the Taj a man told us to follow him through a gate. He ran forward ahead of us and pointed out were we should take pictures from. Pollution from all the factories in Arga maybe destroying the marble of the beautiful building but it does make for beautiful orangey red hazy sunrise which was amazing! Watching the sunrise with one of the worlds most famous and beautiful buildings in the foreround will definitely be something I will always remember and appreciate.
The sunrise!
Carl + Cara + Monkey +Taj = Awesome 


Sometimes Carl gets ideas in his head, most of the time his ideas are let's say, a little crazy. Well one of these ideas was to shoot a music video at the Tah Mahal, even though video recording and I'm pretty sure dancing is banned. He would be the star and I would film it. Carl thought an area in the mosque just west of the Taj would be a prefect area. We developed an audience as Carl danced around. 
Dancin'

Once we had enough footage we walked around till we found the stairs to go up and inside. We followed the masses around the inside where the tombs are located. We both agreed that it was pretty creepy in there and they might want to change the lighting and get rid of the dead bodies if they wanted to make it a little less gloomy. To truly appreciate The Taj Mahal it best at a distance in order to see the perfect symmetry.
The symmetry people. Its all about the symmetry. 
Once we explored inside Carl wanted to get some footage of himself dancing in a nook (that is the technical architectural name) of the Taj Mahal. I filmed as Carl danced around and a large crowd gathered to watch us weirdos. After a minute or two Carl decided there was enough of an audience and got a bit shy. However, once he stopped dancing two older Indian woman in saris approached us. One of the woman said her sister would love to dance with Carl. Carl helped the 77 year old  lady up to the nook (now stage) and they danced together. It was pretty awesome if you ask me.

Between Carl getting mistook for a women and dancing around like a fairy while I filmed it, I think its safe to say Carl and I were the weirdest people at the Tah Mahal that day.

Here is the music video Carl made. The song is Interlude by London Grammer.

Friday, 7 November 2014

The Beatles -- Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ashram

Okay, I'm going to be honest. Rishikesh, the yoga capital of world, is my least favorite place in India so far. The city is big and spread out and difficult to walk around. There are no rickshaws on the east side of the Ganges river and that's where all the guest houses and hotels are. It's super touristy but there are very few restaurants and even fewer good restaurants. Everyone is forced together with all the cows, dogs, monkeys, and motorbikes all sharing the small sidewalks and bridges. There seems to be more flies and cow shit on the street than anywhere else we have been in India. Our hotel is in the Swarg Ashram area and we haven't been a lot of places around Rishikesh (because it so hard to get anywhere) so I don't know if other areas are nicer. 

The best part is the abandoned Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ashram where the Beatles stayed during their time in Rishikesh. Carl describes our adventure beautifully "Today we scaled the back wall to the abandoned Maharishi Ashram in Rishikesh. The Beatles arrived here in 1968 and much of the White album was birthed here. It was magical to explore this decaying place being eaten by the jungle surrounded by the spirits of the Beatles. The essence of time and transcendence inhabiting every step as butterflies danced from flower to flower. We heard "Black Bird" in the distance and stumbled upon a man bringing the magic of the Beatles to our ears. After finding the magnificent shrine room and Beatles house we escaped back the way we came over the wall and through the jungle back to town. Love is all you need is love."

The pictures are much better at communicating the magical time we had than I can describe so I will let them speak for themselves.
The back gate...
The forest outside the ashram 
Over the wall...

Breaking the rules!
Magical secret garden 
These purple flowers were growing everywhere 
Ashram building 
I'm a fairy!
Pathway to a mediation hall
Mediation area 
Love is all there is
Building 
Forest trying to eat building 

Doors/windows 
View from top of the big building 
Inside the same building 
Oh hey, giant spidy 
Little  house things 
Building where The Beatles stayed
Top  of The Beatles house
View from the Beatles  house 
Free concert 
He played 5 or 6 songs  from the white album 
The Cathedral 
The story...

Maharshi mahesh yogi
Art
More art
Yogananda 
The gurus 
Art
Blackbird 

A little video with some archival footage of The Beatles at the ashram (Thanks Dennis).

Love you all. I hope everyone is well.